GIANT ASIAN POND TURTLE
(Heosemys Grandis)

 

 

DESCRIPTION      DISTRIBUTION     HABITAT     FEEDING

ENCLOSURE        ILLNESSES       BREEDING

 
     

 

 

 

 

Description: Adult turtles can reach over 18 inches long and weigh over 20 pounds, hence why they call it the Giant Asian Pond turtle. They have a brownish tinted shell with light yellowish specks on the face. These turtles have been hit hard in the wild and mainly collected for the asian food market.  They have strong feet and nails that are used for moving their large bodies around at ease.

Distribution: These turtles are native to Thailand, Cambodia, Myanmar, South Vietnam and in Malaysia.

Habitat: They live in sub-tropical to tropical environments.  They like to burrow a lot, especially during heat waves. These turtles are great swimmers and are mainly found in larger bodies of fresh water.  Lakes, ponds and streams. They are terrestrial and wonder on land a bit. They cannot hibernate.

Feeding: Grandis are very easy to acclimate to turtle pellets.  They are non stop eaters and will basically eat everytime you offer food.  They mainly feed on vegetation in the wild.  In captivity they will eat banana, mellon, mango, squash, carrots, romaine, tomato, and strawberries.  They can be fed a strictly pellet diet if need be.  They like Reptomin and Aquamax (trout chow).  In the wild they will eat dead animals, earth worms, mice and any other small rodents.

Enclosure: Giant Asian Pond turtles are great swimmers and therefore can withstand deeper water just as long as the dimensions are long enough.  As adults they are very powerful so they will require a big escape proof wall of some sort.  These turtles are also great climbers to be sure to observe your turtle before walking away and leaving it alone. 

Fresh clean water is a must, otherwise respiratory problems will arise.  You should have heavy oxygen flow to help eliminate ammonia in the water.  Small juveniles will do well in 2-8 inches of water.  A log should be provided for basking as fungus can grow on these turtles very easily.  UVB and calcium are required to prevent abnormal shell growth.  Shell curling will occur on these turtles at a very young age and can get out of hand as your turtle ages. 

If kept outside, try offering some piles of leaves, shaded bushes and shrubs as they will wonder on land and hide from the hot sun.  Be sure not to have too many males kept in one enclosure as they will fight and sometimes do some serious damage. Try to make your turtle feel stress free and comfortable to avoid any illness. Captive bred grandis will appear very docile and stress free if given the proper enclosure, it is long term captives or wild caught species that will be more aggressive in their enclosure.

Illnesses: Common problems with these turtles are fungus, ear absess, respiratory, collapsed lung, shell rot, and kidney failure.   The best way to prevent any problems is to keep them in a stress free enclosure with super clean water.  Fungus can be treated with an anti-fungal cream which can be picked up at your local pharmacy. Shell rot can be treated with neosporin and a water proof band-aid.  An ear absess is a lump that occurs on the side of the face of your turtle.  You can actually use a sterile razor blade to carefully cut a slit in the absess and squeeze all the white substance out, followed by an application of neosporin.  Respiratory, collapsed lungs, and kidney failure can be treated with Baytril or Fortaz but these drugs nor any drugs guarantee a full recovery.

Parsites sometimes find their way into your turtle's enclosure.  Panacur seems to work best to rid any unwanted parasites.  This is a paste like substance that can be placed on your turtle's food, such as a banana.  Feed them this banana out of the water to avoid the panacur washing off
Breeding: Mating with this species can occur at any time of the year, but will most likely take place in the spring and on rainy warmer days. The male will generally mount the female in the water and will try to bite the female's head while doing so.  He will bite at the female's head to try to prevent her from escaping his breeding efforts. This can last for many hours.  Sometimes the male can do a little damage to the female's head.  Usually nothing becomes of it.  If so, consult your local vet.  Females average out around 4-7 eggs and will lay them in the ground about 4-6 weeks after mating.  These eggs are best incubated at 80-82 degrees and will take anywhere from 90-110 days to hatch. 

 AL ROACH