EASTERN SNAKENECK TURTLE
(Chelodina Longicollis)

 

 

DESCRIPTION       DISTRIBUTION     HABITAT    

INDOOR HOUSING       FEEDING       BREEDING       ILLNESSES

 
     
 
Description: The Eastern Snakeneck turtle is a smaller snakenecked turtle.  The carapace reaches about 20 cm in captivity.  The carapace is dark brown to black and the plastron is a creamy white or yellow that has scutes separated with black borders.  The neck of this species is covered with tubercles which are pointy. The neck is also very long, snake-like, as it can move in all different motions.  The eyes are more on top of the head than most turtles.

Distribution: These really neat looking turtles are found on the eastern side of Australia, south of Rockhampton in Queensland all the way to Victoria and as far north along the east coast as Cap York.  It is one of the most common turtles found in the Adelaide area in southern Australia.

Habitat: These turtles are found in ponds, swamps and slow moving waters.  They frequently hangout on land as they are one of Australia's terrestrial turtles.  Sometimes, one might even spend a couple months on land.  These turtles are cold climate turtles unlike most of the other species in the same genus. They are even active when it is 11-13 degrees celsius.  They will find a way to hibernate or aestivate if need be.  Temperatures determine the Eastern Snakenecked turtle's activity.  During the dry season, they sometimes travel great distances to find a pond or lake. They prefer soft and sandy bottoms and will leave the water at times to bask on fallen logs or tree branches.

Indoor Housing: For this species, as well as all snakeneck species, I would encourage them to be kept indoors so proper temperatures can be kept.  These beautiful snake necked turtles do fairly well as hatchlings or small turtles in a 20 gallon long with proper filtration.  Make sure your filter is shooting the water up and out of the water allowing it to crash down on the water’s surface placing oxygen back into the water.  Oxygen helps fight ammonia in the water, which can cause some serious respiratory infections.  Lighting is also a necessity. UVB full spectrum lighting should be used as well as a heat bulb for a basking spot on top of a log or rock. Make sure the log or rock that you have in the enclosure for the turtle can sit completely dry and not allow any water from the filter splash and hit it as this will prevent the turtle from getting fully dry.  All turtles should be allowed an area to completely dry off their skin under a heat lamp that sits about a 10-12 inches above the basking area to prevent fungus growth on their skin and shell.  A day and night schedule should be set up for your snakeneck.  13 hours of day light each day and around 11 hours of night fall.  Anything close to this schedule would do fine.  Do what you can to duplicate their habitat in every way possible.  6-8 inches deep should be suitable for your longicollis.

Feeding: This species is more of a carnivore.  It will eat anything it can catch. It tends to eat a lot of insects in the wild.  They even eat on land, which in most turtles is uncommon as most prefer to eat in the water.  Most of their diet consists of molluscs, small frogs, tadpoles, small fish, worms, snails and other insects in the wild.  They will attack dog food and trout chow or aquamax 500 turtle pellets.  These turtles should have no problem turning to the brand name foods such as reptomin.  Most brand name foods tend to offer the proper nutrition needed for a healthy turtle.

Breeding:  Eastern snakenecks will breed usually after a cooling period or winter.  Clutch sizes will range from 8-24 eggs.  The baby turtles will emerge in about 3-4 months later in the wild. In captivity if artificially incubated, much faster as constant temperatures are kept.
Illnesses: When a turtle is stressed, it's immune system breaks down and weakens.  This allows the turtle to be more susceptible to disease.  A stronger immune system will allow the turtle to battle and overcome any illness it may take on.  Not always the case but in a lot of cases, turtles are able to fight sickness on their own.  Respiratory infections can easily be fought if the turtle is warmed up.

Many people will opt to go to the vet when their turtle is doing something abnormal.  It's probably a good idea unless you know someone else that knows what they are doing. 

Baytril and Fortaz are the two main drugs vets use for their reptiles.  Dosages are based on weight of turtle, so contact your local vet for further information on your turtle's health.  In the mean time, keep your turtle warm with a temperature of about 85-90 degrees.

 AL ROACH