BURMESE PYTHON
(Python Moulurus Biuittatus)

FEEDING     HANDLING     BREEDING     HEAT     ILLNESSES

HOUSING     LAWS     SAFETY     WATER

Unfortunately, captive Burms have access to food on a far more regular basis than your average wild-caught Burm. In the wild a Burm might go months between meals: in captivity some owners will "power-feed" their Burms weekly or even bi-weekly. This results in explosive growth -- but is also extremely unhealthy for the snake. As with humans, obesity in snakes strains the heart, circulatory system, liver and other organs and can lead to a shortened lifespan. Conversely, some owners withhold food or provide undersized prey items to stunt their Burms. This can be successful for a few months, but will soon lead to a sick, cranky Burm who is more likely to bite and more prone to respiratory and other infections.

From the start, most baby Burms can take small rats. A weekly feeding schedule is good for the first year or so: at the end of that time your baby will likely be anywhere from 6 to 10 feet long. After that you can start feeding biweekly: full-grown adults may only eat once every three or four weeks. (Like other cold-blooded animals, snakes have very slow metabolisms. Because they need not expend energy on body heat, their food requirements are considerably lower than those of a comparably sized mammal). Prey items which leave a noticeable but not overly large bulge are generally best: an adult Burm may eat anything from large rabbits to turkeys, small pigs and kid goats. Lakshmi, who weighs approximately 85 pounds, eats 2-3 colossal rats (which weigh over a pound each) and one adult guinea pig (which typically weighs 1.75-2.25 pounds) every two weeks.

You should have no problem getting your Burm to eat: from the start, you should establish it on frozen-thawed prey. While some snakes refuse to eat anything but live prey, Burms generally aren't so picky. Live prey can endanger your snake: there's a reason people talk about fighting like a cornered rat, and a rabbit's rear claws can inflict terrible wounds. Live animals are also more likely to carry parasites or other nasties which are killed by a good stay in the freezer.

RodentPro has a good selection of guinea pigs, rabbits and colossal rats: I also had good experiences with Hare Today until Lakshmi decided she no longer wanted to eat rabbits. While they are generally VERY healthy eaters, individual Burms often have particular food likes and dislikes. They will sometimes refuse food items which they have favored for months or years, demanding other prey instead. This can become disconcerting after the third or fourth time your baby rejects a rabbit at $15 or so a feeding attempt.

Handling: An adult Burmese Python can deliver several hundred pounds per square inch in a coil: it can throw you around the room like a rag doll if it gets agitated and starts flailing. Should you engage in a battle of strength with your Burm, things will not go well for you. Luckily, those muscles are powered by a walnut-sized brain - and a smart keeper will capitalize on that!

From the beginning, you should "hook train" your Burmese Python. Get a snake hook and tap or stroke your snake with it before handling it. Do NOT use this hook at ANY time when you are feeding the snake. In time, the snake will come to recognize the hook as a sign that no food will be forthcoming:
this will help to slow down its feeding response and ensure that you don't get mistaken for lunch when you reach in to change the water.

Warning: you will not be able to use the snake hooks to lift a Burm of any size. You may see pictures of people handling slender-bodied snakes by transporting them on one or two hooks. If you try this with a full-grown Burm, you will likely break the animal's ribs and/or bend the hook past repair. Use the hook as a signal, not a transporting device. (If you don't want to use a hook for this, a length of broom handle or something else large enough to allow you to touch your snake softly from a distance will work).

Wrestling with your Burm is likely to prove counterproductive. You will have more success by gently placing your hands behind the snake's neck and guiding it to where you want it to go. It may resist a few times, and even hiss to show its displeasure - but in the end it's likely to follow its head and slither merrily to your chosen destination. To use a New-Agey definition, "power with" is going to get you a lot further than "power over." Use the Burm's size to your advantage: allow inertia to lead it back into its cage or temporary holding container (we use large Rubbermaid tubs)

Burms and booze is a bad, BAD combination. Burmese Pythons, like other snakes, find the smell of alcohol unpleasant. Intoxication makes you clumsy: you may grab your snake more roughly than you intended. Because your judgment is impaired and your inhibitions lowered, you may do something stupid that will get you in trouble. If you're not fit to drive, you're not fit to handle your snake... and that goes for your friends too. You should also be careful about handling your snake when taking certain types of medication or when you are stressed or preoccupied.

Wash your hands before and after handling your Burmese Python. By washing them before, you help to get rid of any scents which might trigger a feeding response in your animal. (Burms hunt by heat and smell, and their olfactory sense is stronger than ours. You may not be able to notice the smell of your neighbor's bunny rabbit an hour after petting it... but that doesn't mean your Burm won't). After handling, you should wash your hands to prevent the transmission of salmonella. (While you are far more likely to catch salmonella from preparing chicken than from handling a snake, there is some risk of disease transmission: a simple scrub with antibacterial soap helps alleviate that).

Breeding: So you've done your research, and you've decided that you really want a Burm after all. You've got the necessary resources, you've checked all applicable laws and you've received a go-ahead from your roommates, spouse, landlord and all other persons of interest. Now where do you go to find the scaly little (or not-so-little) love sponge of your dreams?

Many people THINK they want a giant constrictor. Few are prepared for the daily demands of life with a snake which weighs more than they do. As a result, animal shelters and reptile rescues frequently have adult and subadult Burmese Pythons available for adoption. If you have some experience with reptiles (especially large snakes), you may want to take in an unwanted large Burm. Otherwise, you may want to think twice. A rescue Burm may have been neglected or mistreated: it may have health issues and may be more unpredictable than a Burm you have raised since it was small.

When seeking a breeder, you have many options available. For the most part, you will do best to stay away from pet stores. While there are some pet stores which take great care of their animals (and even a few which specialize in reptiles), there are many more which keep their animals in unhealthy, unsanitary conditions. If you see several snakes thrown together in a cage with inadequate heating and filthy substrate, run away. (Don't fall prey to the urge to "save" a snake you see in these sad conditions: as a beginner you'll soon find yourself over your head, and in any event you're just subsidizing an abusive breeder.)

An invaluable resource for those looking to buy a Burm (or any other reptile) is the Fauna Classifieds Board of Inquiry. Like any other forum, discussions sometimes get sidetracked into personal issues and flame wars. Still, this is a great place to find out more about the reputation and history of the person with whom you wish to do business. You can also learn more about the Burmese Python market (and get invaluable expert advice on caring for your Burm) at various forums dedicated to large constrictors. Bob Clark, who first brought the albino Burmese Python to market in 1987, offers excellent forums: while Bob only participates rarely, many other advanced keepers and breeders are regular contributors, including Jim "Bebo" Mason, Sam Bearden, and Dr. Jay Owens. You can also find excellent forums on kingsnake.com, as well as many breeders selling Burmese Pythons (and other snakes) great and small.

You may want to attend a reptile exhibition in your area and purchase your snake there. A reptile exhibition will allow you to view your prospective Burmese Python (and the many different varieties thereof) up close and personal: you will be able to get a look at its general health, disposition and well-being before you decide to buy. Avoid any snakes with mucous or caked on discharge around the nostrils (signs of a respiratory infection). Be especially alert for "stargazing" - a tendency to hold its head in an awkward sky-facing position - and difficulty in moving or in righting itself when rolled on its belly. These can be signs of Inclusion Body Disease (IBD), a fatal and highly contagious virus which can wipe out your entire collection if you bring it into your house. If you have never actually had the chance to handle a full-grown Burm, this may also give you an opportunity to do so - and decide if you are really up to the task of keeping these gentle giants.

Heat: For my money, the best heat for Burms comes from Pro Products Heating Panels. They are a bit more expensive than alternatives like ceramic heating lamps or Flexwatt belly heat, but they provide an even basking space and easy, precise control of your cage temperatures (which should always be 80°F or greater on the cool end and 88-90°F on the warm end). You will also need a thermostat: I use a thermostat by Ranco but Spyder Robotics thermostats are also highly recommended. Try keeping your cage away from walls, particularly outside walls: this can cause the cage temperature to drop. If that is not possible, you may may want to put a layer of foam or other insulation between them.

(If you have a baby Burm which you purchased in a petstore, it may have come with a "hot rock." Do yourself a favor and throw that piece of snake-killing garbage out into the nether darkness where it belongs. Hot rocks are notorious for burning snakes: they get hot spots which can cause horrible sores and burns on your pet's belly. When dealing with adult Burms this is not a problem: nobody makes a hot rock large enough for a full-grown Burm. Those who own small snakes need to be careful).

When it comes to heat, you don't want to skimp at the expense of quality. A failed thermostat or dead heating element can cause a seriously overheated or unheated cage: this could lead to a dead or a sick snake. While Burms are pretty hardy snakes, inadequate heat will almost certainly lead to respiratory infections and ill health down the line... and you really don't want to be carting 100+ pounds of snake to your local vet (assuming you even have a local vet who handles reptiles) if you can avoid it!

Inadequate heat can lead to respirtory infections. Your snake may become listless and lose its appetite: it may raise its head and gape its mouth like it is gasping for breath. You may hear a loud wheezing or see mucous around the snake's nose. If left untreated the infection is likely to kill your pet. Veterinary care will almost certainly be required. in the short term raise the temperatures in the enclosure to 90° or as close to it as possible: you may also want to put an extra basin of water in the cage to raise the humidity. Try feeding smaller prey items to your snake while it is sick, since larger prey items are harder to digest and may cause a sick snake to regurgitate.

Unsanitary conditions can cause necrotizing dermatitis, otherwise known as "scale rot." This manifests as brownish "staining" or discoloration on the belly scales, along with chipping or abrading of the edges. When you see this on your snake apply original Neosporin™ (or some other topical ointment containing acitracin, neomycin, and polymyxin B and nothing else). Should the problem persist, see a veterinarian. Scale rot is also a sign that you need to clean and sterilize your pet's cage and quickly. You can wash the cage down with a 10% bleach solution (but make sure it has dried thoroughly before returning your snake!). You may also want to bathe your snake in a bath to which Betadine has been added until the water is the color of strong tea. (Make sure your snake does not drink any of this water: keep an eye on it and prevent it from submerging its head!) You can also use Neosporin and Betadine baths if your snake rubs its nose on the cage or is wounded is some other way.

Mites are another curse which frequently afflicts snake keepers: look for moving black specks in the bedding or around your snake's eyes. If you find mites, clean out your snake's cage thoroughly, then use Provent-a-Mite and Reptile Relief. In a pinch you can also rub your snake down with olive oil, and spray their bedding down with the anti-louse spray which you find at your local drugstore. Allow the cage to dry out thoroughly before returning the snake to its home. Mites are typically brought in by other snake: keep any new animals quarantined for at least 30 days (60 to 90 or more is better) until you are sure it is not carrying any parasites or other diseases.

Housing: Within 2 to 3 years, your baby Burm is going to require, at a bare minimum, a 6' x 3' (1.8m x 1m) home. Burmese Pythons are heavy-bodied: a 2' wide cage will likely prove too narrow for a snake who is as thick as your thigh. If you have a female Burmese Python, I would strongly urge you to consider an 8' x 3' (2.3m x 1m) cage. Yes, you can keep a full-grown female in a 6' x 3' cage, and many people do. But in my experience the extra space makes for a healthier snake who is less prone to obesity -- one of the banes of a Burm-keeper's existence. The 8' x 3' T70 from Animal Plastics is highly recommended by many keepers, while the 6' x 3' Vision Cages are favored by others. Lakshmi resides in an 8' x 3' melamine cage from Boamaster Reptiles.

Each of these cages are bulky (and in Boamaster's case, HEAVY -- like 500+ lbs. of heavy). They also cost $500 or more: depending on where you live, freight can easily add another $400+ to your bill. If you can construct your own housing, you can save a considerable amount of money. But be advised that you will be building a cage for a very large and very long cylinder of solid muscle. If everything isn't tightly screwed and bolted into place, your baby is likely to push until it breaks free -- and it will break free. (Trust me on this). Also be advised that you will need to make sure your floor (and probably your walls) are thoroughly weatherproofed: otherwise, your cage will quickly warp and rot after a few water spills and gallon-plus puddles of standing urine. Quite a few DIY cage builders have placed bathroom tile inside their snakes' homes: you may want to consider this. (You may also want to consider whether or not you are ready for a couple decades of shovelling: a full grown Burm's bowel movements will put a small horse to shame... ). I strongly advise against using any sort of chicken wire in the construction of your cage: snakes can turn their noses into hamburger trying to push through it.

Putting your baby Burm in a massive cage may stress the poor little thing out: while a couple of hides may help, you will probably do better moving a baby to a more modestly sized cage until it's about 7' or so. Since that's only going to take a year or so, I don't advise spending a lot of money on the interim cage. I use Iris VE175 clear tubs (also known as "Christmas Tree Boxes" and available at Reptile Tubs): they are spacious, sturdy, escape-resistant, inexpensive, easy to clean and heat and highly recommended.

Once you have a cage, you have various options for lining it. Newspaper is inexpensive and soaks up messes quite thoroughly. Some people purchase cage liners or use commercial brown paper towels; others use aspen or other forms of substrate that are made specifically for reptiles. (Don't use cedar shavings: the oils may irritate or even kill your snake!) Your Burm is likely to push this into piles and helpfully rearrange anything you place in its habitat: you're probably better off keeping things as simple as possible. While baby Burms may use hides, subadult and older Burms will likely have little use for them.

Restrictions against Burmese Pythons can be at the state level (New York, for example, prohibits private individuals from owning any Burmese Python they did not acquire before December 2004). They may also be banned under local ordinances. (A Charlotte, NC keeper had his Burm Isis confiscated after his neighbors saw it on his MySpace profile. While not illegal in North Carolina, the snake was prohibited under municipal regulations). Restrictions may prohibit ownership by species or by size: a Burm which is legal as a baby may become a violation as soon as it reaches 6' or some other arbitrarily defined limit. Other areas require keepers to acquire a permit or license for their pet.

Even if your Burm is legal now, there is no assurance that the regulations in your area will not change. If they do, you may be "grandfathered" in and allowed to keep your pet so long as you do not breed it or attempt to acquire more Burms. You may also be given a certain amount of time to get rid of your animal by selling it, giving it away, or having it euthanized. Nor, in today's mobile society, is there any guarantee that you will be remaining in your present location indefinitely. Before acquiring a Burmese Python - or moving to a new home with your current Burm - you should make sure that your new pet isn't going to run afoul of any applicable laws. Otherwise you may be facing fines, eviction, and even criminal charges; more to the point, your beloved animal may be destroyed because you didn't take the time to do the appropriate research.

All this being said, not everybody follows the law. Perhaps you have been transferred to a state which prohibits Burms, but you don't wish to get rid of your beloved pet. Maybe your new Burmese Python has already arrived. (Most breeders leave it up to buyers to check and comply with applicable local laws). In that case, as with most quasi-legal endeavors, a little bit of discretion will go a long way. Before you take Big Bertha down to the park to impress the kiddies and coeds, make sure she won't attract the attention of John Law. (You should be careful about displaying your snake in public even in legal jurisdictions: it is stressful both for the reptile and snake-phobic bystanders). Be aware that in the event of a house fire or other emergency, you may find yourself answering some awkward questions delivered by unsmiling people carrying badges. In keeping a Burmese Python illegally, you are putting both yourself and the animal at risk ... and while this danger can be minimized, it can never be eliminated.

A hungry adult Burm is a very dangerous animal. If it mistakes any part of your anatomy for food, it will strike and try to wrap around you. This will be unpleasant at best: although not venomous, a bite from a large constrictor can still send you to the emergency room with severed tendons and arteries. If it manages to wrap one or more coils around you it may very well kill you. Any Burm over 10 feet long should only be handled by two or more people: when dealing with a 15-foot+ Burm, it's best to have three on hand. This second person will be able to unwrap the Burm from the tail upward: sie can also use mouthwash or alcohol to cause the snake to let go and try to escape. If you live alone (or plan to do so soon), you really should think long and hard about getting a Burm. They may be uncommonly gentle wild animals, but they are still wild animals; if you forget that, you may get a very painful or even fatal reminder.

If you have other pets, you need to keep them safely away from your Burmese Python. This is for everyone's safety: a cat can maim a sleeping snake just as surely as a hungry Burm can swallow a teacup poodle. If you have children you should consider keeping your snake in a locked room: you should at the very least lock your cages to discourage curious toddlers. You should also be aware that you may be held criminally and civilly liable should your animal escape and cause damage. If your Burm kills the neighbor's dog you may be facing an expensive lawsuit; should it kill their baby you will likely be facing manslaughter charges. These scenarios may seem unlikely: it is in your best interest to make them impossible.

This is not intended to discourage you from keeping a Burm: on the contrary, I encourage any interested and qualified person to consider owning these beauties. But neither do I wish to minimize the very real responsibilities that come with keeping a big constrictor. There is no shame in admitting that you are unable to meet those requirements: there is shame in neglecting or abusing an animal because you were incapable of caring for it properly. Stupid decisions on your part can come back to haunt those of us who are keeping Burms and other giant snakes responsibly: Burms are already illegal in several jurisdictions).

  KENAZ FILAN